A Day at Susan's, the Long Ride Home and Wrapping This Up

Susan left for her class around 8 and I had breakfast and then headed out into her backyard to do a little weeding.  I haven't done any for a month and Lord knows there will be plenty to pull when I get home, so it's good practice.  She bought this place all on her own and it has wonderful little features like cedar lined closets and coved ceilings.  Here are a few pictures of the before and after...just so you know I DID actually do something today.

We had dinner at a pub called Waddell's which had a great menu and a cider that was on the sweeter side.  I think I prefer the dry ciders.  I packed up and rode down to the train station, which is about 5 miles from Susan's house and found out that ticket agents and baggage handlers don't open until 10 p.m.  We played a couple of games of Farkle and Susan soundly beat me and then I talked her into heading home.  When the baggage agents opened their window, I bought a bike box, made the necessary changes to the handlebars and took the pedals off, and rolled my bike in, fingers crossed that that it wouldn't get damaged.

It was 10:30.  Word came that the train was running late...the 2:45 a.m. departure became a 5:00 a.m. 

departure.  When I boarded, the train was pretty full and there were no double seats...I picked an aisle seat beside a young, sleeping girl and tried to drift off.  I woke again when we pulled into Pasco and just stayed awake the rest of the trip. People watching on the train is pretty entertaining.

I arrived at Portland's Union Station just before 1p.m., put the bike back together and headed to my parent's house...but not before I had to wait for a large ship to pass under the bridge I was on.  So much of life is waiting, isn't it?

My parents are downsizing (Dad is 92, my mom is 87) and moving into an Independant living situation, so I drove over with them to their new place and helped them unload "the first load".  

I know I am fortunate to be able to go on the adventures that I do.  I am in good health, have the means and the time to be able to pull it off.  I don't take it for granted, I am truly grateful.  I tell people that I feel I have this small window where I can physically do these things and I am going to do them.  The Canadian Rockies was a stunning showcase of natural beauty.  I was not turned off by "tourist places" and the Canadian people, were endearing.   Thanks for coming along with me...Time 

to plan another adventure...

This Train Runs on Time...Except When It Doesn't

I slept in Aubrey's sun porch which meant I could make a quick getaway this morning.  I'd like to tell you that it was a quiet getaway too, but his screen door has a monumental squeak.  Shhhhh!  I left around 5:30, riding down to Sandpoint's Marina where there is a bike path that leads the way to a bicycle/pedestrian path (it's really more like a couple of traffic lanes!) across the Long Bridge and Lake Pend Oreille.

I had hoped there would be light traffic on Highway 95, but the trucks probably love early morning too...we were there together.  Sometimes the shoulder was excellent, sometimes it sucked.  I was more than happy to turn off onto Highway 53 after 40 miles.

I was steadily making my way to a dear friend's house in West Spokane.  I stopped at a funky little restaurant called Pryor's on Wellesley in Otis Orchards about 11 and I was thinking breakfast...I
was thinking pancakes, but they handed me a lunch menu.  The East Hill burger has a beef patty, shaved ham and bacon plus two kinds of cheese.  Sold.  It's my last one.  Really.  Even if I get home and go out for a long ride, you should test me by suggesting that we go out for a burger after the ride.  I will say no.  I think.  But I might crumble like a buttermilk biscuit.

I rode on Wellesley a lot today and it was a good way to get across Spokane Valley and to the Centennial Trail.  Spokane's Centennial Trail runs 37 miles from Nine Mile Falls to the Idaho border along Spokane River.  Beautiful in places.  Somewhere along Wellesley I found Sydney and Trinity (who was very shy and hid from me!) two young entrepreneurs who had set up a lemonade stand.  For 50 cents they put some in my water bottle and gave me extra ice.  I thought the extra ice earned them a healthy tip.  They told me that yesterday they made $60.  Atta girls.

I arrived at Susan's around 2:30, having clocked over 82 miles on the bike.  Susan had an afternoon appointment, but she left a door open for me.  The first thing I did was return Amtrak's call...they had left two automated calls on my phone about my train being delayed and alternate service.  Ummm...yeah...22 hours delayed.  The alternate service?  They could put me on a bus to Seattle tonight at 8:30 and get me to Portland by 9:30 tomorrow night...with the bike going in the undercarriage of the bus.  No.thanks.

Susan and I went to The Flying Goat for dinner and I had a Caesar salad and a really good pear cider from Lone Tree.  I also got to see her sister and brother-in-law whom I love to pieces.  Amtrak has tossed me some lemons...I shall take Sydney and Trinity's lead and "make lemonade".  I asked Susan what she needed done around her place...

Back in the U.S.A.

I should have been more insistent about getting a picture of Jan and Zack.  This morning they graciously made me a cup of French pressed coffee because they said what I'd find along my route in the first 20 miles or so just wouldn't do for someone from coffee country.  But they were in their bathrobes, so...no pictures.

Highway 21 heading south is very nice riding.  It becomes Highway 1 when you enter Idaho.  I had an easy entrance back into the United States and realized the fields of hay were surrounded by hills now, not mountains.  Unless you're from Ohio, and then they're probably still mountains.  I came upon a wild turkey hen in a patch of alfalfa.  I stopped and she ducked down.  "Not gonna work," I told her, "I want a picture."  I laid my bike down and was prepared to walk towards her, but a car came up from behind me and she walked out anyway...with 6 or 7 little chicks all scrambling for a new hiding place as well!

About 10 miles south of the border, two gentlemen crossed the highway on loaded bikes.  Dan and Rick are from Vancouver and are riding the Selkirk Loop, heading to Creston today.  They asked me if I was nervous about riding alone.  I actually get that question quite often and the answer is always the same...I like riding with friends, but I don't mind riding by myself.  It gives me a chance to think about how I am doing in this great big thing called Life.  Rick and Don told me Highway 95 has shoulders that come and go, but that there is a cutoff road south of Bonners Ferry that is very nice.  I will try to find it.  Daniel and Helen had also warned me of Highway 95 and they were right...not unsafe, just unpleasant.  With the exception of a downhill into Bonner's Ferry and a matching climb back out of it (the pavement through this section is pretty torn up) the route along Highway 95 is pretty flat.

I do recommend a stop north of Bonner's Ferry at a place called the Bread Basket Bakery.  Those women know their way around a kitchen and their cinnamon rolls "did not pass Go" but went directly to the top of my favorite bakery item list.  Too much yum for a reasonable price!

The road the fellas from Vancouver were talking about is called Deep Creek Loop.  Excellent cycling road and a wonderful respite from Highway 95.  I pedaled into Sandpoint around 2 pm and stopped at the visitor center but they did not have wifi.  The resourceful lady at the counter gave me a list of hotspots in town.  I also had her show me where the bike path is that will get me over Long Bridge.  I ended up going to the library in town, but I had to ask 2 people for directions, and y'all know how much I like doing that.

My Warm Showers host is Aubrey, who suggested a stop at Evans Coffee Roasters and it was a great suggestion.  An iced Americano with cream really hit the spot.  I rode to Aubrey's house and was waiting when HE came from the back of his house.  Aubrey is a man!  Haha...my body language was probably hilarious...I was expecting a woman...too funny.

Aubrey is in his mid 20's and one of the most articulate young individuals I have ever seen.  He was writing gaming software when he was 16 and financially supporting himself when he was 17.  He's a partner in a company called Kochava...watch them...this guy is innovative, intelligent, and creative...he's going to do some amazing things.  It is not a stretch to say he is Steve Jobsish.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time with him.

Tomorrow is my last full day of riding...likely over 70 miles.  I might...have to have one last burger.

Make a Run for It!

I heard a generator running somewhere in the campground well after dark, but it didn't keep me from drifting off to a deep, sound sleep.  I find that the first few days I tour, it's hard for me to get much sleep...I'm not comfortable, I'm too hot, too cold, "What is that noise?" etc.  Pretty soon I get used to that teeny weenie pad, and have that pleasant fatigue that a day of riding brings, and all of that cool, fresh air makes me sleep like a baby, or log, or whatever it is that sleeps REALLY, REALLY well.

I was along the lower half of Kootenay Lake for most of the morning.  There is just something wonderful about riding along water.  It soothes my soul.  I left the campground around 7:30 and I love riding at that time of day.  The air is cool, the sun is making a grand entrance, traffic is minimal if it is anything at all, and occasionally you can scare up a deer, or rabbit, or something else that has also gotten up early.

The rollers were very mellow this morning and I hadn't ridden 5 miles when a pickup truck passed me going the other way bearing a Parks Dept. Insignia.  It was Ken.  "Heeeyyy Cindi!" he yelled.  I grinned and waved.  He had a couple of bales of pink insulation in the back of his truck and I suspect he is one of those guys who is a Jack of All Trades.  Nice guy.

The miles flew by and soon I was at Lower Wenndel Rd.  It was a rural farming road, running along an irrigation ditch.  And it certainly saved me a climb...until I had to reconnect with Highway 3A in Creston.  There may have been as much climbing in "Valley View Drive" as there would have been on Highway 3A.  Oh well.  Does it really matter?  :). Lower Wenndel was a pretty little road...I'd take it again...I might even drink from the creek next time...

I stopped at the visitor center which has taken the place of McDonald's as my blog update provider.  They were very nice and I sat outside in the shade and took care of the blog and some correspondence.  I will be spending a little time with a dear friend in Spokane before I catch the 2:45 a.m. Train back to Portland.  This particular visitor center had an electrical outlet where I was sitting, so I was also charging my phone.  A dusty van pulled in next to me and a 20-something hopped out and asked if he could use the other outlet.  O.K. By me.  The guy pulls out a power strip and people start pouring out of the van.  Quicker than you can say General Electric, they had 7 phones plugged in, and then started talking to each other in animated, passionate Spanish.  I think.  I was lost and they didn't want to talk to me anyway...they had things to say to each other.  It was comical.  I finally unplugged my stuff and offered the other outlet to them as well.

I was finished at the visitor center but not quite ready to go to my Warm Showers house, so I stopped at a restaurant for a sandwich and a salad.  While I was finishing, dark clouds started to fill the sky, there were peals of thunder, and the waitress said, "Oh, looks really dark."

"I hope it REALLY rains" said an older woman who was on her third cup of coffee.  That...was my cue.  I gathered my stuff together as quickly as I could, and before I could secure the buckles on the Ortliebs, giant drops of rain were hitting the pavement.  It smelled that smell of rain on the sidewalk.  You know the smell.  Fortunately, I had been given excellent directions, and the house where I would be spending the night was only a half mile away.  Still...you can get pretty wet in a half mile.

Jan and Zack had planned for me to pitch my tent in their backyard, but with the rain, they invited me to use my sleeping bag in an upstairs bedroom.  I was grateful.  They are hikers and mountain bikers, seasoned travelers who love the Escalante area of Utah.  They are also avid gardeners.  Zachary told me the cherry growers are not going to be happy about the rain...it could split the cherries.

Can You Climb Out of Kokanee Bay?

It rained last night, but I was tucked safely into Fiona's studio.  She does some work with mosaics...the one by her front door is beautiful!  After a wonderful breakfast, and a bit more chit chat, I hugged Fiona goodbye and headed south towards Balfour.  There were climbs and descents, climbs and descents all the way to the ferry.  At the ferry terminal, I was enticed by a bakery that had a line of people out the door, and bought a triple chocolate cookie.  Boo!  It was disappointingly dry and stale.  The sun, however, had made a glorious appearance, and I spent a couple of hours at the ferry terminal, people watching and enjoying the wifi at a little lakeside restaurant.  The ferry is free and makes a 35 minute crossing over to Kokanee Bay.  You know how ferry terminals always have those wretched uphills?  I was curious as to whether or not I could climb my way out of Kokanee Bay without stopping.  Seems I can...

I took my sweet time riding through Crawford Bay.  It is home to a variety of  artisans and craftsmen.  There was a broom shop (they made the brooms for the Harry Potter movies),  a pottery shop, a forge, and art galleries.  I would have liked to have stopped at the forge...I love all of that iron hardware, but there is no way I'm carrying it on my bike.  There will just have to be a time when I come back to this place by car.

The rollers south of Crawford Bay were pretty tame and about 3:30, I rolled into Lockhart Beach Provincial Park.  Great beach!  My grandkids would love sorting all of the rocks, keeping some as "special" and skipping others on the surface of the lake.  The wind wasn't particularly bad this afternoon, but there were whitecaps and I thought of Fiona swimming her way across the lake.  I saw three kayaks chasing each other and slapping water at each other with their paddles.  I waded in...but wasn't planning on going swimming.  I didn't have anyone to motivate me...:)

The park has nice sized sites, but no showers, no potable water and just pit toilets.  Ken the Ranger told me it was okay to drink out of Lockhart Creek...he does it all the time.  I'll pass.  The last thing I need is "you know what".

I'll have a short ride to Creston tomorrow and Ken gave me a detour/shortcut that he said would save me a long climb.  I'm going to try it...even if he does drink out of the creek.

I'm still waiting for that north wind.  Today it was out of the south all day long.  As I write this, clouds have rolled in and I hope they don't ruin my "afternoon sun going down behind the mountains with water shimmering in the foreground" picture.

Save the Toads!

After a good cup of coffee, I said farewell to Daniel and Helen and headed downhill to New Denver.  They had told me about a little place called the Apple Tree that had great blueberry muffins, but I got there around 9:30 and the Apple Tree didn't open until 11.  Boo!

Helen had told me there were about 7 climbs on the way to Kaslo, but I lost count at some point.  All I know is that I was in my small chainring a lot.  In fact, I have been in my small chain ring more on this trip that the entire time I have owned that bike.  It is getting a good workout.

Daniel and Helen had told me to watch for Bear Lake and then Fish Lake...because there is a toad that lives here and is about to make the transition from polywog to toad.  Trouble is, they then have to cross the road and get into the forest to live.  So...some of them get squished.  Helen said when they are crossing the road en masse, it's hard to miss them even if you're on your bike, let alone in a car.  I think they set aside a day...sort of a Toad Festival, where locals go with buckets, scoop up the toads, and carry them safely to the other side of the road.  At any rate, Daniel thought they might be crossing at Fish Lake, but when I got there, I just saw thousands of polywogs swimming close to the shore.  Maybe their crossing will be in a few days?

I loved, loved, loved this route.  When I got to Fish Lake, I knew that an amazing downhill into Kaslo was mine.  It was such wild, untamed land.  Seriously, if there hadn't been asphalt and road signs, I could have been the first one here.  I passed beautiful creeks...Whitewater Creek, Lyle Creek, and Rossiter Creek.  I was rolling along at a pretty good pace and chastened myself for not stopping to take more pictures.  It was lovely and rugged all wrapped up in the same package.

I got into Kaslo early in the afternoon and went to the visitor center.    They have the oldest intact sternwheeler docked there and I suspect it has made many a trip ove Kootenay Lake.  I should have taken more pictures of the village...full of artisans and wonderfully built houses...many on the hill with amazing views of this beautiful place.

You know how sometimes  you meet someone and you feel that the meeting was just meant to be?  I had contacted a Warm Showers person here, but he was off touring himself and unable to host me.  But...he made arrangements for me with a another person in Kaslo, and I had the good fortune to meet Fiona.  What a kindred spirit!  We talked about cycling, yes, but also life, and family, politics and religion, adventure and gardening.  She has done those Polar Bear plunges here in Kootenay Lake and swum across the lake!  She made me what she called a glory bowl, which isn't too different from our mighty bowls, and I thoroughly, thoroughly loved my time with her.  I hope I have convinced her to come on the Buddies Ride to the San Juans next year.

Another Day in Paradise

The campground at Halcyon Springs was very quiet at 6:30 this morning, so I was quiet too.  I didn't make my coffee until 8:00, and started riding towards Nakusp around 8:30.  It was cloudy and probably in the 70's...seemed like nearly perfect riding weather.  There was a slight headwind out of the south...I don't think we've really had a tailwind this trip other than a stretch from Bragg's Creek to Cochrane.

I passed a logging operation near Halfway River (halfway to what, you might be wondering...?). Logging seems to be one of the mainstays in the economy here.

There are several hot springs resorts along Highway 23, and one of them is Nakusp, but it's about 7 miles off the road.  Not gonna do it.  I need to take Highway 6 towards New Denver at Nakusp, but first I went to the visitor center to get a couple of questions answered.  Elaine Lindsay works at the visitor center and seems like the perfect person to be an ambassador for the area.  I wanted to know what the name Nakusp meant and she told me it was the Indian word for "Bay of Quiet Waters".  In fact, in 2006, Elaine wrote a poem...a limerick...as a tribute for International Women's Day and she's allowing me to reprint it here:

There once was a bay of quiet waters,
In which there were artists and potters,
The Spring rains pelted,
The mountain snows melted.
And the sun warmed the Dogwood daughters.

Pretty cool, huh?

I saw two heavily loaded touring cyclists coming towards me and yelled, "Good morning, where are you headed?" But didn't catch what they said.  There were riding uphill and had bags on both the front and back, so I turned around and caught up with them and we chatted for a bit.  They are Sigrid and Karl Heinzelman from Stuttgart, Germany.  They are headed over to Lake Louise and Banff so we talked about riding on Highway 1 over Rogers Pass and the robust climb they will have getting up to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise.  Karl is a bookseller, a cyclist, a "weltenbummler" and "obenbleiber".  Helen Koeppen, help me out with those last two...You can check out their blog at
Www.usa2013.twoday.net

There are waterfalls like the one at Ione rest stop along Highway 6 and I had to do a fair amount of climbing to get to a lake appropriately named Summit Lake.  I was amazed at how warm the water felt...I know Liz would have gone in...

I got to Daniel and Helen's around 3 and they got home from running errands around 4.  He had given me directions and they were excellent...I had no trouble finding it.  What wonderful people they are!  Daniel is a landscaper and photographer and Helen has traveled all over the world as a musician.  Their garden is phenomenal and I really enjoyed swapping touring stories with them.  One thing that Daniel told me about their place that I found fascinating was that nearby New Denver had been an internment camp during WWII.  When they took the buildings down, the lumber was moved and reconstructed into buildings on Daniel and Helen's property.  I loved that the wood had stories to tell and was rich with history.