After a good cup of coffee, I said farewell to Daniel and Helen and headed downhill to New Denver. They had told me about a little place called the Apple Tree that had great blueberry muffins, but I got there around 9:30 and the Apple Tree didn't open until 11. Boo!
Helen had told me there were about 7 climbs on the way to Kaslo, but I lost count at some point. All I know is that I was in my small chainring a lot. In fact, I have been in my small chain ring more on this trip that the entire time I have owned that bike. It is getting a good workout.

Daniel and Helen had told me to watch for Bear Lake and then Fish Lake...because there is a toad that lives here and is about to make the transition from polywog to toad. Trouble is, they then have to cross the road and get into the forest to live. So...some of them get squished. Helen said when they are crossing the road en masse, it's hard to miss them even if you're on your bike, let alone in a car. I think they set aside a day...sort of a Toad Festival, where locals go with buckets, scoop up the toads, and carry them safely to the other side of the road. At any rate, Daniel thought they might be crossing at Fish Lake, but when I got there, I just saw thousands of polywogs swimming close to the shore. Maybe their crossing will be in a few days?

I loved, loved, loved this route. When I got to Fish Lake, I knew that an amazing downhill into Kaslo was mine. It was such wild, untamed land. Seriously, if there hadn't been asphalt and road signs, I could have been the first one here. I passed beautiful creeks...Whitewater Creek, Lyle Creek, and Rossiter Creek. I was rolling along at a pretty good pace and chastened myself for not stopping to take more pictures. It was lovely and rugged all wrapped up in the same package.
I got into Kaslo early in the afternoon and went to the visitor center. They have the oldest intact sternwheeler docked there and I suspect it has made many a trip ove Kootenay Lake. I should have taken more pictures of the village...full of artisans and wonderfully built houses...many on the hill with amazing views of this beautiful place.

You know how sometimes you meet someone and you feel that the meeting was just meant to be? I had contacted a Warm Showers person here, but he was off touring himself and unable to host me. But...he made arrangements for me with a another person in Kaslo, and I had the good fortune to meet Fiona. What a kindred spirit! We talked about cycling, yes, but also life, and family, politics and religion, adventure and gardening. She has done those Polar Bear plunges here in Kootenay Lake and swum across the lake! She made me what she called a glory bowl, which isn't too different from our mighty bowls, and I thoroughly, thoroughly loved my time with her. I hope I have convinced her to come on the Buddies Ride to the San Juans next year.
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